Blackwork is a form of embroidery typically comprised of geometric patterns worked in black thread, although other colours may be used instead of black or to accent it. Originating in Tudor period England, blackwork often takes the form of a counted-thread embroidery, where the warp and weft yarns of a fabric are counted for the length of each stitch, producing uniform-length stitches and a precise pattern on an even-weave fabric. Blackwork may also take the form of free-stitch embroidery, where the yarns of a fabric are not counted while sewing.
The stitches used for counted thread blackwork are double running (or holbein) stitch, backstitch and sometimes stem stitch. Historically, blackwork was worked on plain-weave fabric. Modern embroiderers often use an even-weave fabric made especially for counted thread work (such as aida).
Historically, there were three common styles of blackwork:
- counted stitches worked to make a geometric or small floral pattern; most modern blackwork is produced in this style, especially patterns made for embroidery hobbyists.
- large designs of flowers, fruit, and other patterns connected by curvilinear stems; these free-formed shapes, outlined with stem stitch, are then filled with geometric counted designs.
- outlined patterns "shaded" with random stitches called seed stitches; this style of blackwork imitates etchings or woodcuts.
Blackwork embroidery patterns are often charted on a grid, just like cross-stitch, so it can be a great place for beginners to start. But when blackwork is used for filling a larger design (its most common use), a grid isn’t necessary. This can make blackwork challenging, yet at the same time allows a lot of room for interpretation. Once you understand the sequence of the filling pattern, it’s just a matter of applying that sequence repeatedly in the area to be filled.
Blackwork is a lovely style of embroidery, a little like creating a patchwork picture where different stitched patterns (star, lattice, geometric, floral) take the place of different colour or printed fabrics. Kits are great way to learn techniques and stitch patterns, which you can then use to create your own designs.
